Time Out 16th May 2001

Shish brings a hint of welcome, relaxed chic to Willesden Green. New owners with deep pockets have employed trendy designers to transform the old D&G Greek kebab house into a light-filled, flame-jumping concept eating place and wine bar. Shish’s conceit is to bring together cuisines from an extended Silk Road, and features well presented and fairly priced kebab favourites.

First, the design, which has cost a mint: poured composite floor, up-to-the-minute wood laminates, chunky curvy wood bar and groovy graphics.

Second, the food. Eight cold mezze come in tapas-sized portions and span the Silk Road through Japan and China to the Levant. Of the hot mezze, ‘red and green’ falafel were good, while strong-tasting veal borek accessorised by banana leaf was better on the plate than off. Most of the dozen mains are offered as wraps.

Chicken kofta promised preserved lemons, onions, garlic, cumim and chilli, but was clumsily spiced. Halloumi Shish was replete with rosemary potatoes, and was a good, filling dish. A side salad consisted mainly of young spinach leaves, whose fresh, earthy flavour was overwhelmed by a salty dressing that made the unlimited filtered water from the counter-top taps welcome indeed. Desserts of nice halva ice cream or nut pastry are usually augmented by chef’s specials.

There is an excellent fresh juice bar, and a short wine list. An upstairs bar promises to offer NW2’s best (only?) posing possibilities. Service is dishy and pert; just as well, since they add 10 per cent to the bill total for it, then leave credit-card slips open.

Shish is a proto-chain that promises good value food that flatters fashion-loving young professionals in hitherto untrendy locations. Typical of our times, what it just misses in the cooking it makes up for in good looks.