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Bites - Caroline Stacey

The Independent on Saturday Magazine - 12th July 2003

 

Shish does for kebabs what Wagamama did for noodle soup, and the second branch of the original Willesden wonder could be a start in the East. Sit at a counter for grilled-to-order skewers (which is what shish means) including apricot, ginger chicken; three fish; satay and koftes from a dozen varieties. They’re all flavours found along the Silk route – from Rome to China. Breads come from the minaret-style oven. Cocktails from adept mixers.