Jeremy Wayne is looking to nab a kebab - 30 october 2004

Shish

I gave the Hoxton branch of Shish (the original is in Willesden) six months when it opened. That was 18 months ago. So what do I know? Shish is fun, consistent, contemporary - clean and good value for money. The kebabs are first-rate. Mediterranean chicken - marinated in olive oil, garlic, lemon and thyme - is their best seller. King prawn gets the same treatment, minus the thyme, but with a dash of chilli. There's a juice bar at ground level and £1 gets you endless supplies of still or sparkling water at the long-bar pumps - very novel, very now. You need to hit the basement bar for proper, mixed drinks. They're wild, especially the Holy Shish. I couldn't tell you what's in it - I don't want to know.

High Point - Professional, well-run outfit
Low point - Wine list is perfunctory